Buying Pre-Owned: What to Look For

Buying pre-owned is the smartest way to acquire a fine timepiece, provided you know what to look for.

First, the dial. Originality is everything. Service dials and aftermarket lume can knock thousands off resale value, even on otherwise excellent watches. Always compare against reference photos for the era.

Second, the case. Sharp lugs and original chamfers indicate a piece that has not been over-polished. A heavily polished case is not necessarily a problem, but it should be reflected in the price.

Finally, paperwork. A full set — box, papers, service history — typically commands a 10-20% premium and protects you on resale.